Acrylic resin looks tough and glossy right out of a mold, but smoothing it takes some real attention. Plenty of people believe this material is forgiving. In practice, even small mistakes show up under bright lights or next to clear edges. I came to grips with this while sanding a batch of coasters at my kitchen table. No matter how carefully I poured the resin, tiny ridges and bits of roughness stuck out. I knew a rough finish would bother me every time I set down my coffee mug.
My first lesson: cheap sandpaper leaves scratches behind. There’s no shortcut here. High-quality wet/dry sandpaper brings way better results. Resin scratches easily at the start, so I reach for 400 grit first. Some guides say to start lower, but 220 grit just gouges the surface and takes longer to smooth out. I change to 800 grit, then 1500, and sometimes even 2000 for a glassy finish. Water is key. Dry sanding resin sends fine dust everywhere, which feels awful to breathe and sticks to fingertips. Soak the sandpaper in clean water and sprinkle a bit more as things dry out. This reduces dust and clogs.
Plenty of people try shortcuts with power sanders. I learned quickly: rotary tools or palm sanders can melt resin or leave swirl marks, especially on small projects. Manual effort just plain works better for me. I wrap sandpaper around a soft block and move in slow circles, not back and forth. It seems tedious, but sanding this way gives better control over pressure and keeps the shape true.
Each time I finish with a grit, I rinse the resin and yell at myself to look for scratches. Rushing to the next step comes back to bite later. I spot-check angles in the light, since dull patches love to hide. If I see stubborn marks, I go back and sand again. Skipping steps never saves time—those leftover marks always show through when polishing.
Sanding through 2000 grit leaves the surface smooth, but it won’t shine like glass. Polishing compounds make a world of difference. I use a microfiber cloth and a dab of plastic polish, buffing in slow circles. Some people reach for toothpaste as an alternative; it does a fair job in a pinch, but plastic polish gets better results and doesn’t leave weird residue. Clean the finished piece with soap and water before showing it off. Polished acrylic resin feels satisfying to hold.
People often ask about fixing cloudy spots or sanding marks that won’t budge. I found two common reasons: either not sanding long enough with each grit, or accidentally jumping grits (like 400 to 1500) to save time. The answer is patience and sometimes redoing a step. Good lighting also matters—I recommend working by a sunny window or under a bright lamp.
Almost everything I know about sanding acrylic resin came from reading, trial, and a few failures. Online communities pointed the way, and friends who cast their own jewelry shared hard-earned advice. If you’re struggling, share photos and questions in these groups. Look for experienced creators who post clear explanations along with their results. Your next project will turn out better for it.
