Epoxy resin projects fill my studio with a kind of energy nothing else quite matches. Watching resin transform from a glossy, raw surface to something unique pulls you in as an artist. Then, someone asks: can you just use acrylic paint on resin? The answer comes down to a mix of science, trial, and a willingness to experiment. Plenty of artists have tried, failed, and then found a process that works. So the short answer is yes—acrylic paint can be used on resin, but it’s not as simple as just slapping it on.
Pouring acrylic paint straight onto freshly cured resin leaves you with a streaky, unpredictably textured surface. The resin’s top layer gets slick and nonporous as it cures, almost like glass. Acrylics cling to rougher surfaces, so painting here is like skating on ice: you need grip. Skipping surface prep leads to peeling and chipping over time. Years ago, I learned this lesson the hard way after a batch of resin coasters wore patchy after a few weeks. Turns out, a little preparation makes all the difference.
Any seasoned crafter will say: start with sanding. Using a fine-grit sandpaper (around 220 grit), rub the resin until it loses that shiny feel. Clean away dust with isopropyl alcohol. No shortcuts—dust gets trapped under paint and ruins the finish. This prep stage helps break up the glassy surface and gives the acrylics some tooth to grab onto.
A good primer comes next. Acrylic gesso or a universal bonding primer makes a huge difference. Even professionals stick to this step, since it bridges the gap between stubborn resin and flexible acrylics. Apply thin layers, letting each coat dry, and the paint goes on smooth. You won’t get that satisfying result from skipping ahead.
Not every method gives lasting results. The resin surface expands and contracts with changes in temperature; acrylic paint, even with good prep, flexes but it’s not indestructible. For projects you want to last—think jewelry, tabletops, or keepsakes—a clear acrylic or polyurethane sealer locks in the paint. Go for multiple, thin coats, letting each dry completely. This way, you guard your artwork from moisture, scuffs, and the faded look sun can cause over months or years.
Not every kind of acrylic paint performs the same on resin. High-flow acrylics blend better, but thicker paints offer more coverage. If you want richer colors, pick professional-grade paints instead of those sold for kids’ crafts—these use more pigment, so your colors stay vivid. Also, stick to high-quality resin brands. Cheaper formulas sometimes give unpredictable results when painted.
Bubbles sometimes pop up under acrylic paint. That’s poor prep or unmixed resin. Patience helps: let your resin fully cure, give your primer time to set, and never rush drying times just to see the finished project. Sealing edges and curing in a dust-free, level space stops grit and debris from getting trapped. For bigger mistakes, sand and start again—resin is tough enough to take extra sanding rounds if needed.
No two resin pours match perfectly, and each piece asks something different from you. Artists constantly swap methods and share tips in online communities, always looking for more durable, beautiful results. The fun comes from learning, adapting, and accepting that the process means trial and error. Staying open to new products and techniques pays off for anyone willing to keep trying.
